The Japan/Korea Cruise – October 2023

The Land of the Rising Sun. Windstar named this voyage the Grand Japan cruise. Starting in Osaka and making a counter-clockwise journey hitting seaports only smaller ships and yachts could get into. This cruise was half full at 144 passengers and 197 crew. Windstar is a luxury cruise line and offers exceptional food, highlighting chefs from the James Beard Foundation. Variety of entertainment or activities on board the ship are limited. I met some lovely people and a bunch of solo travelers which is becoming the norm on cruise ships nowadays.
 
In every Japanese port, we were greeted warmly, sometimes entertained by the local performers. Some of the seaports had only 40K – 50K pop. 
Starting in Osaka, we sailed clockwise and ended up in Tokyo
Dining with the Onboard Cruise Consultant and Destinations Manager at Amphora Restaurant on board ship

At the first port of Takamatsu, I walked through a beautiful zen garden called Ritsurin Koen. This garden is cared for by 16 full time gardeners and includes a tea house and 6 water ponds throughout the 185 acres. Many of the pine tree limbs are carefully twisted, shaped and groomed. They looked like giant bonsai trees. I stayed there almost 2 hours, imagining what it was like back in the 17th century and living among the ruling clans, feudal lords and shoguns. Foodies of Japanese noodle soups should make a point to eat udon in Takamatsu. A special type of noodle called Sanuki udon is popular in this city.

My new friend Lilly from NorCal and I standing in front of black pine trees. Ritsurin Gardens,Takamatsu, Japan
This is called the zig zag bridge. Takamatsu, Japan
Feeding the carp. Ritsurin Koen, Takamatsu, Japan
Ritsurin Koen, Takamatsu, Japan
It's okay to slurp udon in Takamatsu

A visit to Miyashima island is a must if you ever get to Hiroshima. Accessible only by ferry, they are known for the Torii Gate, fresh oysters, a vegetable pancake called okonomiyaki, deep fried fish cake and maple leaf pastry. Oysters are grown in large containers in the ocean and harvested by cranes lifting the crates out of the water. The tide was high and the Torii Gate looked like it was floating on the water. Many shrines here and you can prayerfully ask the gods for blessings. The protocol: wash hands (and mouth, optional) to purify, throw your money in the offering box, bow twice, clap twice, pray/ask for blessings, then bow once more. The city of Hiroshima has been entirely rebuilt since it was destroyed in 1945 by an atomic bomb. Today it’s a bustling, thriving city with 1.3Mil inhabitants.

Torii Gate, Miyajima Island, Hiroshima Japan
Fresh Steamed Oysters. Miyajima, Japan
Oishi!! Delicious!
Docile deer roam the island
Cenotaph for the A-bomb victims. Look closely to see the Atomic Bomb Dome in the background. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, Japan
Atomic Bomb Dome is the only remnant of the bombing. Hiroshima, Japan
In Karatsu, I took an onsen bath at Ryokan Wataya. Then ate a beef bowl at Carnesta restaurant. The  meat in the Saga area is similar to Wagyu, with lots of marbeling. Wandering back to the train station, I passed by an exhibition hall that houses huge floats used in their annual celebration.
Huge floats used in the annual festival. Karatsu, Japan
Onsen at Ryokan Wataya. Karatsu, Japan
Saga beef is similar to Wagyu. Carnesta Restaurant. Karatsu, Japan.
Relaxing soak at the onsen. Ryokan Wataya. Karatsu, Japan
Lamb chops at Candles Restaurant on board the Windstar Breeze
Taiko Drummers at sailaway. Karatsu, Japan

About 30 minute drive out of the Busan (Pusan), Korea port is a hot spring area. The sign on the wall stated in gold lettering “Welcome to Hurshimchung the best spa in the world”. Inside, there were several large mineral baths aptly named longevity, cave, outdoor, waterfall, celadon, beer, sitz, cold. Water temperature is between 40-42 degrees C, and combines the hot spring water with medicinal elements and seasonal herbs. You could soak in one, or all of them. I paid extra for an exfoliation treatment and got scrubbed down, slapped on, pulled and contorted in awkward poses, slathered with a cold cucumber facial mask, flipped over, massaged with piercing elbows, and had a vigorous hair wash from a petite yet very strong beautician dressed in a panty and bra. Was it the best spa in the world? I’m not well-traveled enough to answer that, but I’d say it was one of the best Korean spas I’ve been to. If you’re shy about walking around in the buff, don’t worry, you’ll get used to it. But do learn the etiquette concerning Korean spas, such as removing footwear, washing thoroughly before entering the pools, using the appropriate towel, and no splashing! (Sorry no photos for obvious reasons).

Hurshimchung Hot Spring Spa, Busan, Korea
I loved visiting the Nagasaki Confucian Shrine and Historical Museum of China. It is the only full-scale Chinese-style Confucius’s mausoleum in Japan. The 72 stone statues reminds me of the terra-cotta soldiers in Xian. Then walked about 5 minutes to the Hamanomachi shopping area to buy Castella cake. I had a delicious tonkotsu ramen at Always Ramen.
 
Tonkotsu Ramen with extra wood ear mushroom. Always Ramen, Hamanomachi Shopping Arcade, Nagasaki, Japan
72 Life sized stone statues. Nagasaki Confucian Shrine and Historical Museum of China. Nagasaki, Japan
Nagasaki Confucian Shrine and Historical Museum of China. Nagasaki, Japan
Scallops, Amphora Restaurant on board Windstar Breeze. Did I mention how good the food was onboard ship?
Kagoshima and Shingu are both small cities. In Kagoshima, Sakurajima volcano is still erupting. The island is only accessible by ferry. Shingu has the tallest waterfall in Japan. It’s 133 meters (145 yards), a little longer than a football field.
Tallest waterfall in Japan is in Shingu. Glad that I had this poncho from a previous trip.
Sakurajima Volcano is still erupting. Kagoshima, Japan
Three-tiered pagoda at Nachi Falls, Shingu, Japan
Beautiful landscaping in front of the pagoda. Shingu, Japan
Shimizu is a great place to eat fresh sashimi, and has a wonderful shopping area where you can buy last minute gifts and food for friends back home. Be careful about buying anything with pork though. US Customs will question the origin and may disallow it.
 
As always, I met some wonderful people on this cruise and will have memories to last a lifetime. 
Tempura and sashimi bowl in Shimizu, with a dollop of maguro.
Would you believe that I met two people from Hawaii on this cruise? Imperial Palace. Tokyo, Japan
Guarding the Imperial Palace. Tokyo, Japan. Unlike London, there's no changing of the guards here.
Dinner at Cuadro 44 on board ship with new friends Debbie and Steve from Atlanta, and Dee from Australia

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